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Overlocker tension

How to get perfect Overlocker tension

 

How to get the correct overlocker tension is the most common issue when using these machines. An overlocker is a fantastic machine and can be extremely useful.  It trims and neatens fabric edges much faster than you can using a sewing machine. But don’t just keep it for neating edges, it also sews the seams in a fraction of the time too.  When they work well, your overlocker is your best friend.  But if the tension is wrong, they are the devil to use.  There’s not an overlocker-owner on the planet who hasn’t wanted to throw theirs out the window on at least one occasion.

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Husqvarna Viking Emerald 118 Sewing Machine – Review

Best Sewing Machine?

Husqvarna Emerald 118 Sewing Machine Review

I had to find the best sewing machine for my teaching studio. I needed something that was easy-to-use,  versatile, robust, and great value.  My local specialist dealer Andrew Pemberton recommended the Husqvarna Viking Emerald 118.  Prior to that, I was aware of Husqvarna as a high-quality brand but I hadn’t used one before.  So I was happy to go along to test it against some of its closest rivals in the same price bracket.

I tested the Janome CXL301, and the favourite of the Great British Sewing Bee, the Janome 525. I also tested a Singer and a Brother. The best sewing machine I tested overall was the Emerald.  I chose them for their ease of use, pleasure to use, and durability.  My previous high-ranking favourite brands, Pfaff and Bernina, make top-class quality machines too but are a little on the pricey side by comparison. Read more

Pattern Ease – Why is my sewing pattern bigger than my measurements?

What is ‘Pattern Ease’ and why do I need it?

Pattern Ease is the allowance made over and above the body measurements when making a pattern. It enables natural body movement. If patterns were exactly the same size as your body measurement, the garment would literally be skin tight. Pattern ease is added to the body circumference measurements, but not to any vertical measurements.

Although your shop-bought clothes may say ‘to fit bust 36″‘, if you measure them, you’ll find that they are considerable bigger.

There are three basic kinds of pattern ease:

(1) Wearing ease
(2) Design ease
(3) Negative ease

 

Wearing or fitting ease

The minimum amount added to enable comfortable movement and sitting. This is usually no less than 5cm (2″).

Design ease

The extra amount added to create a particular shape or silhouette.

Negative ease

Applies to garments made from stretchy fabric such as jersey or lycra. It is a deduction from the actual body measurement so the resulting pattern is smaller than the wearer’s measurements. The garment will therefore stretch to fit and be tightly-fitting. Negative ease applies to sportswear, swimwear and underwear.

Guide to the amount of Fitting and Design Ease

The average total amount added to body measurements to allow for wearing and design ease is as follows:

Close fit 9cm
Easy Fit 13cm
Loose fit 17cm
Baggy 21cm
Oversize 25cm

How do I know how much ease has been added?

Paper Pattern manufacturers don’t make it easy to know how much ease has been added. Sometimes the garment might be described as ‘Easy fitting’ or ‘Loose fitting’.  But each manufacturer will have their own idea of what those words mean.  Just as they all have their own set of sizes!  They usually won’t tell you on the pattern envelope how much ease has been included but they may tell you the finished garment measurements.  If it’s not on the envelope,  look at the pattern pieces themselves.  Generally upper body garments such as blouses will show the finished bust size, whilst skirts and trousers may show the finished hip measurement. For example, the hip measure of an A-line skirt in size 14 will actually be 110cm, although the pattern envelope suggests it’s to fit a size 97cm hip.

Another very general indication will be the nature of the garment.  Underwear or tops worn close to the body will have less design ease, and an overgarment such as a coat will have much more design ease included to enable it to fit over several other layers of clothing.

The design itself should tell you whether the item is supposed to be close-fitting or baggy. So if you’re making a cocoon dress, don’t skimp on that ease, or it will be a sheath dress instead!

To learn more about pattern ease, why not take a dressmaking course?

Songs for Winter is an exhibition by Quiltmaker Pauline Burbidge and sculptor Charlie Poulson

Songs for Winter; a two-person exhibition by Quilter Pauline Burbidge and her sculptor husband Charlie Poulson

Songs for Winter

At: City Art Centre, Market Street Edinburgh  until 4 March 2018

Wed-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12 noon-5pm.  Free entry

I was lucky enough recently  to be invited to a curated viewing of ‘Songs for Winter’.  The special viewing was organised by Thistle Quilters, and limited places were offered to Embroiderers Guild and EDGE Textile Artist members. So I obviously jumped at the opportunity.  The Textile Artist Pauline Burbidge was giving the tour herself.  It was insightful and inspiring to listen to Pauline talking about her techniques and working processes, and to have the opportunity to ask questions.

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Travelling Books Project

Travelling Books Project

I’ve often mentioned the Embroiderers Guild ‘Travelling Books’ project on my Facebook page. There’s about 24 members of our Guild branch involved and we started last October by all being given an A5 sketchbook. The idea is that we each choose a theme for our book, and do a small piece of embroidery inspired by that theme.

I’ts been a great opportunity for me to work in some my favourite creative textiles techniques.
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Sewing bad habits you should avoid

Sewing Bad Habits

Everyone has sewing bad habits.  Some of these I can smugly say that I never do. But there are a couple of these 12 sewing crimes that I commit frequently. How do you measure up with my ‘Dirty Dozen’? Are you guilty as charged?
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Sewing jersey fabric. A dresssmkaing pattern for jersey stretch knit fabrics

Sewing jersey fabric

Sewing jersey fabric can be fun and very satisfying.  You can make all types of clothes from T-shirts, leggings, dresses, tunics, pyjamas and more.  Jersey fabric is soft to wear, drapes well, and tends to crease less than wovens.

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Academy awards for sewing patterns

Academy Awards – for Sewing Patterns

The talking point of last night’s Academy Awards ceremony was undoubtedly the announcement of the wrong winner of Best Film.  But my attention as always was on the stunning gowns. So I thought I’d take a look at some of the sewing patterns around that are worthy of an Academy Award themselves.
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