How to Choose the Correct Pattern Size
One of the first questions I address with new dressmaking students is: “How do I choose the correct pattern size?” It’s one of the biggest stumbling blocks for beginners, and for good reason – commercial paper patterns are not sized like ready‑made high‑street clothing. You can’t simply walk into a fabric shop and buy a pattern in your usual dress size. To make things even more confusing, sizing also varies between pattern companies.
The good news is that once you understand how pattern sizing works, choosing the right size becomes straightforward.
If you’re still building confidence with your sewing machine, my Beginners Classes are a great foundation before moving on to pattern fitting. Once you’re comfortable with seams, hems, zips and buttonholes, you’ll find it much easier to tackle pattern adjustments — which I cover in detail in my Dressmaking Courses.
Start by Taking Accurate Body Measurements
Before you buy a pattern, measure yourself (or ask a friend to help) and take those measurements with you to the shop. On the back of every pattern envelope, you’ll find a size chart listing bust, waist, and hip measurements. Most patterns include multiple sizes in one envelope, so you simply choose the size closest to your own measurements.
Getting the right pattern size is only the first step. The real magic happens when you know how to adjust the pattern to fit your body properly. A little professional guidance can save you hours of frustration, which is why I cover these fitting techniques in my Dressmaking Courses. With the right tuition, you’ll learn how to tweak bust, waist, hip and shoulder areas so your garments look and feel beautifully made.
An Example: My Own Measurements
My measurements are:
- Bust: 98 cm
- Waist: 84 cm
- Hip: 102 cm
According to the pattern chart, the closest match is a size 16. Even though the bust measurement on the pattern is 97 cm, I have a small frame. If I chose the next size up, the garment would be too big across the back, shoulders, and neckline — which would require more complicated alterations. It’s much easier to make a small adjustment at the bust than to take in the entire upper body.
The waist may also need tweaking, but the hip measurement is the priority for a good overall fit. So although I normally buy a size 12 in ready‑made clothing, I’ll cut a size 16 pattern. I then pin‑fit the pattern and note any areas that need adjusting.
Don’t Worry if You Need to Go Up Several Sizes
It’s completely normal to go up two, three, or even four sizes from your high‑street size. As long as your measurements are accurate, the pattern will fit your body far better than shop‑bought clothing ever could.
Some pattern envelopes also list the finished garment measurements, which can be incredibly helpful. If they’re not on the envelope, check the instruction sheet or even the tissue pieces themselves. You can compare these finished measurements with a similar garment you already own to double‑check the fit.
And Remember — They’re Only Numbers
Pattern sizes are just a system of measurements, not a reflection of you. Choosing the size that fits your body will always give you a more flattering, comfortable, and professional‑looking garment than sticking to a number that matches your high‑street size.
